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I use a blower brush to remove dust and dirt, then lens tissues with a lens cleaning solution to clean the element. It’s the same for camera lenses.Ĭleaning is easy. Your vision is clearer if the lenses are clean. Anyone who has looked into the sun while wearing spectacles or sunglasses will appreciate this. If your lens is dusty, dirty or greasy it will be more prone to flare. The fewer elements inside the lens, the less likely you are to get flare. One cause of flare is light being dispersed inside the lens as it passes through the lens elements. One reason for this is that they contain fewer internal lens elements. Prime lenses (if you have one) are less prone to flare than zooms. If you also stand in the shade when you take the photo, you won’t get flare. If you’re taking a photo of someone backlit by the sun, and there is too much flare, try placing them in the shade instead. This prevents the light from the sun hitting the front element of your lens. Stand in the shade when you take a photo, if possible. Just make sure your hand doesn’t appear in the photo. If the camera is tripod mounted, you can shade the front element with your hand or a piece of card during the exposure. If the lens hood isn’t enough to keep the sun off your lens, there are other techniques you can use: Lens hoods also have the benefit of helping protect your lens from accidental knocks and scratches – another reason to keep them on your lenses while using your camera. Even if you think your images are flare free, it may be that there is a small amount of flare that you don’t notice until you view the photo on your monitor. Once you have bought a lens hood you should keep it on the lens whenever you take photos. Lens hoods work by casting a shadow over the front element of the lens. Longer lenses are better protected by lens hoods than shorter ones. The field-of-view of this lens is much narrower than the 17-40mm zoom, therefore the lens hood can be longer without causing vignetting. This photo shows a metal third-party lens hood that I bought for my 85mm prime lens. The cut away corners are designed to prevent vignetting.
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This shape hood is called a petal lens hood and is common with wide-angle lenses. The above photo shows a Canon EF 17-40mm zoom lens with the lens hood it comes supplied with. But for a lens hood build quality doesn’t really matter, as its main task is to keep light off your lens.
These are often less expensive, although they may not be made quite as well. It is best to buy that particular lens hood if you can, or a third-party alternative that matches the shape and size of the recommended lens hood.
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The instruction manual of your lens will tell you which lens hood to buy. For any other lens you will need to buy one separately. Some lenses, usually the more expensive models in the range, are supplied with lens hoods. There are several ways to do this: Buy a lens hoodĪ lens hood is an essential accessory for any lens. The easiest way to prevent flare is to make sure that there is no direct light shining on the lens. This can happen with any lens, but wide-angle lenses are more prone to this than longer focal lengths because of their greater angle-of-view. Flare is caused by direct light hitting the front of the lens (this is called ‘non image forming light’).